Yongsan Park and Yongsan Children’s Garden
In 2003, after years of rumors, the US and Korean governments reached an agreement on the relocation of the US military from Yongsan Garrison in Yongsan-gu, central Seoul to Camp Humphreys, an existing US military installation near the city of Pyeongtaek. As part of the agreement, most of the land the garrison occupied would be returned to the Korean government for the first time in almost a century.
Development
The land had occasionally been used for military purposes during the Joseon Dynasty, including briefly by forces from Qing China in the late 19th century during a rebellion by angry Korean soldiers. The Japanese military began using it once they forced Korea to become a protectorate in 1905, and it became their military headquarters in Korea during the colonial era from 1910 to 1945. The US military made use of the base after World War 2, and then continuously from the end of the Korean war. The headquarters of the United Nations Command, US Forces Korea, and the Eighth US Army were all located there.
The US government had already turned over a portion of the garrison’s land to the Korean government in 1992, much of which had been the site of an 18-hole golf course. The Koreans developed that into Yongsan Family Park. Later, a larger portion of it was reallocated for the construction of a new site for the National Museum of Korea.
After the 2003 agreement, the Korean government began developing plans to convert the newly returned land into a park called ‘Yongsan Park’. The US military initiated their relocation in 2018 and, once they were gone, the Korean government began surveying the land and testing the soil. They discovered carcinogens at levels beyond regulated standards, a circumstance which delayed development of the park.
In 2022, newly elected Korean president Yoon Suk Yeol relocated the offical presidential offices to the National Defense Ministy complex that occupies a portion of land near Samgakji Station just outside of the old garrison’s South Post. In 2023, President Yoon oversaw the temporary opening of the Yongsan Children’s Garden. This was developed on the western side of the old garrison, directly behind the National Defense Ministry compound. Its entrance was the old garrison’s Gate 14 near Sinyongsan Station.
Yongsan Park was also partially opened in 2023. It’s located on the eastern side of the old garrison, with its entrance near Seobinggo Station. Currently, it’s limited to an area populated by buildings that once comprised Blackhawk Village, a military apartment complex for senior officers and their families. The buildings have been incorporated into the park, with some of the apartments used for park facilities More of the land on the east side is slated for future development to expand the park.
Between the two parks is a section of land that the US government still maintains. Along with a few special facilities, the on-base hotel, Dragon Hill Lodge, remains open for use by military personnel, government employees, and their families. At the south end of Yongsan Children’s Garden, another section of the base is closed off from the general public and labeled “South Korean President’s Office”. It would appear that the president’s actual office is located here rather than in the Defense Ministry building on the north side of the park.
How to visit Yongsan Children’s Garden
Given its location between two highly sensitive facilities, Yongsan Children’s Garden has a high level of security. Visitors must register at yongsanparkstory.kr to visit the first time. The following is what I learned about the process from my visit:
- Korean citizens have a six-day registration window, and foreigners have an eleven-day window. In other words, the first available entry date for a Korean citizen registering today will be at least 6 days from today. In practice, it appears they only let people make reservations on Sundays.
- The registration form for foreigners has fields for both passport information and Alien Registration Card (ARC) number. I attempted to register only with my ARC number, but it still required my passport details. I didn’t test to see if the ARC is also mandatory, but based on my interactions with staff I don’t believe it is. If I’m wrong, then that means tourists will be unable to get inside. The form does require a phone number, but I don’t know if it has to be a Korean number. The web site is woefully lacking on information about what is and isn’t required.
- The form allows you to create a passcode so that you can log in and see your reservation details.
- Upon a successful reservation, the server will send you an SMS message containing all of the information required to get in. Someone will ask to see this at the park entrance.
- If you do not visit on the day of your reservation, you’ll need to make another reservation if you want to try again.
- There is no parking available, so you’re advised to take public transportation.
- Koreans must bring their ID card. Foreigners should bring their passport and ARC. A staff member told me the ARC alone is sufficient, but I advise you to take both anyway.
Once your SMS message is verified at the gate, you’ll be directed to a welcome center just inside. There, you’ll be asked to show your identification, and someone will enter you into the system. Then you’ll be asked to go through a metal detector. You’ll also be required to send your bags and the contents of your pockets through the same sort of scanner they use at airports.
If you have any items that aren’t allowed inside, you’ll be asked at this point to deposit them in a locker located near the exit. I found nothing on their website detailing what is and isn’t allowed, but I assumed that cameras would be prohibited. So they are, along with wireless microphones. Your cellphone can go in with you. Go figure.
After the first visit, you can register onsite on any day the park is open via QR codes on banners set up outside the gate, then enter immediately.